Tips on using the AVL Warping Wheel

I wound on my scarf/sample warp today, and thought I’d document the process, as I do several things to speed up the warping process with my warping wheel.  Here is a link to the new page:

http://www.tienchiu.com/how-tos/weaving/tips-for-using-the-avl-warping-wheel/

In other news, I finished digging and planting the garden yesterday, putting in:

  • snap beans (bush type)
  • carrots
  • beets
  • thyme
  • Italian basil
  • Thai basil
  • globe basil (smaller-leaved variant of Italian basil)
  • oregano
  • chives
  • garlic chives
  • Asian cucumbers (long, thin, grooved)
  • European cucumbers (short and smoothly cylindrical)

I already have habanero peppers, yellow bell peppers, two kinds of sweet melon, watermelon, okra, and butternut squash planted, so it will be quite a garden once it gets going!  I’m looking forward to seeing the results.

I also did a little more pruning on the lemon tree, following Terri’s advice – not a whole lot, but cleaning up deadwood and taking out a few of the more egregiously crossing limbs.  I’m wondering whether it’s best to do all the pruning at once or to take out bits at a time – anyone know?

Tonight, after my conference call (the editorial advisory board for Handwoven is meeting), I plan to finish threading the loom.  I thread at about 5 threads/minute for a simple threading (which this is), so 30 threads x 10 inches = 300 threads should take me about an hour, uninterrupted.  Wow!  That is super fast.  I can see why people like working with thick threads – instant gratification!

Then, of course, I’ll have to sley the reed, tie on, and start weaving.  I do have my weft yarn in hand (Henry’s Attic’s Alpaca Lace), so the next thing up is to weave a test sample to make sure it behaves well when cross-dyed – some protein fibers do dye with some colors of fiber-reactive dye, even with soda ash, which means it won’t cross-dye.  I found that out the hard way, and now sample before committing to a large project.

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Wow!!

I’ve been approached by a museum about including my wedding-dress in an exhibit they are doing in spring 2013.  I’m amazed, and honored!  I’ve been walking on air since I got the email.

Nothing much has happened on any front for the last two days; I spent Tuesday helping out with the Special Sample Service for CNCH, and had a quiet evening at home yesterday, reading through Edible Landscaping by Rosalind Creasy.  It’s a really interesting book, though I suspect that we’ll probably go with a more traditional (=less beautiful) garden.  Still, we are trying to think what to do with our front yard, and it will be interesting to read about how to make a vegetable/herb garden beautiful.  (Mike and I are agreed that we’d rather have the front yard be useful as well as decorative.)

I’ve also been reading up on how to kill your lawn.  OK, in this case, there’s very little lawn to kill: the previous owners didn’t bother keeping up the lawn (or, apparently, watering it), so the front yard is mostly weeds.  But we need to kill off the remaining weeds before replanting.  Common wisdom says several layers of newspaper or a layer of cardboard, topped with four to six inches of mulch, will do the trick.  But I’ve been thinking that compost might work better than mulch – we can plant immediately in the compost, whereas we’d have to wait for the mulch to break down, and the breakdown process would deprive the soil of nitrogen while it decomposed.  I’m currently researching where to find several cubic yards of compost cheaply in Sunnyvale.  (You can get up to three cubic yards for free, but you’d have to haul it – and we’d need more than three cubic yards to cover the yard sufficiently.)

Today the plumbers are coming to do various plumbing stuff, including roughing out the plumbing for my dye sink. Mike and I will still need to hook up the sink and brace the drainboard, but the bulk of the labor will be done.  The plumbers are also going to do things like replacing our shutoff valve, installing a pressure reducer and expansion tank, and so on – much more prosaic and much less interesting.

I’ve also been designing/searching Handweaving.net for appropriate drafts for my cross-dyeing project.  So far I have a collection of 4 shaft twills (birds-eye and regular), 8-shaft crepes and twill blocks, and various 24-shaft fancy twills.  I need to translate these to 24-shaft drafts on a straight draw threading, which will be tedious but not (I hope!) difficult.

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Cross-dyeing designs

I’m starting to prepare for my cross-dyeing experiments.  This time I’m going to put on a 10″ wide warp in 10/2 cotton, and weave it off with Henry’s Attic Alpaca Lace as weft.  The 10/2 cotton is 4200 ypp and the Alpaca Lace is only 4960 ypp, but as the alpaca will fluff up a bit, I’m hoping the difference won’t be too dramatic.  And at only 24-30 epi, it ought to weave up super fast.  I’m still debating how much to put on, but 21 yards sounds about right – enough for ten scarves that are 72″ long (including fringe), or for a couple of scarves and a LOT of samples.  It may not be woven off by the start of the move, but 10/2 cotton is durable enough to move on the loom.  (The AVL Workshop Dobby Loom is designed to allow disassembly/moving with the warp still on the loom.  Go AVL!)

I’m going to thread up on a 24-shaft straight draw, which will allow me to simulate any number of shafts as long as the threading repeat divides neatly into 24.  So I’m going to do some 4-shaft patterns (bird’s-eye twill, 2/2 twill, 1/3 twill), some 8-shaft patterns (crepe weaves, twill blocks), and some 24-shaft patterns (various fancy twills).  I’ll probably also include plain weave.  This will allow me to demonstrate concepts for a lot of different loom types, which is important for this particular article.

The concepts I’m trying to convey are fairly simple.  Basically, you want to limit complex imagery to either weaving draft or the dye pattern: both at once produces muddled looks.  Here are two images from this earlier blog post that illustrate what I mean:

horse, scrunch dyed in turquoise/purple fiber reactive dyes, then stenciled with acid dyes. 3-1 twill with acid dye dominant.

horse, scrunch dyed in turquoise/purple fiber reactive dyes, then stenciled with acid dyes. 3-1 twill with acid dye dominant.

This is successful because it is a complex design with a simple background.

Contrast it with this:

horse, scrunch dyed with turquoise and purple fiber-reactive dye and then stenciled with acid dye in fuchsia. Complex patterning in weave structure.

horse, scrunch dyed with turquoise and purple fiber-reactive dye and then stenciled with acid dye in fuchsia. Complex patterning in weave structure.

Here the complex patterning in both weave structure and dye job collide, and you get visual mud.

And here is a simple pattern with a complex weave structure:

complex weave structure, simple figures in acid and fiber-reactive dyes.

complex weave structure, simple figures in acid and fiber-reactive dyes.

Anyway, those are the main concepts I want to illustrate, but I also want to do some more experimenting first.  There are so many things to try!

Off to the house!  I need to water the herb plants, which I didn’t get into the ground yesterday.  I think I’ll try to do them tomorrow (I already have a commitment for tonight).

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Garden

I spent most of yesterday working on the garden.  I dug up four out of five beds (each bed is about 2′ x 15′) and planted a variety of vegetable starts:

  • three varieties of tomatoes (Sungold, red Brandywine, Marvel Striped)
  • Sharlyn melons
  • one heirloom variety of cantaloupe (the exact name slips my mind at the moment)
  • Sugar Baby watermelon
  • Waltham butternut squash
  • Okra (a red heirloom variety), because it looked interesting
  • two Japanese eggplant (the long thin type)
  • two habanero peppers
  • yellow bell pepper

Still to plant are the cucumbers (two varieties), and the herb garden: parsley, thyme, chives, garlic chives, and two kinds of basil.  Those will go in tonight, hopefully.  (Rosemary – in the form of our trailing rosemary bush – and sage may go in next, so we will indeed have “parsley, sage, rosemary and  thyme”.)  And I need to plant two more rows with as-yet-undetermined varieties – carrots, perhaps, or beets.

Here’s a pic of three of the five beds:

garden beginnings

garden beginnings

After that it’s not really clear what I will do next; the flooring won’t be happening for at least three weeks, so nothing much can be done on the interior of the house except installing the dishwasher, which requires delicate surgery on the cabinets and is largely Mike’s job.  And installing the electrical circuits, which requires skilled labor, so Mike is doing that as well.

Which means I may go back to weaving, and working on the book, if I can’t figure out something else to do.  I will likely do some more work with cross-dyeing – a publication has expressed interest in the technique, so I want to do some more experimentation.  I’ll probably wind up weaving a couple of scarves, so a narrow warp, in heavier yarn that I normally use, seems to be in order – weaving it off should be a snap.

(I’d really rather be weaving a 12″ wide sample in 140/2 silk, but that will take a lot longer and would probably conflict with the move.  Too bad!)

 

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Dye sink

My dye sink arrived!  I darted out to the restaurant wholesaler this morning and picked it up before heading off to Drupal Camp at Stanford.  (One of my projects at work is being implemented on the Drupal platform, so work sent me to this mini-conference.)  I dropped the dye sink off and managed to set it up on my nice new pavers:

outdoor dye sink!

outdoor dye sink!

You will notice one glaring flaw in the sink design: there are no supports for the drainboard, meaning that the slightest weight on the drainboard will tip over the sink.  Mike and I are going to have to create some supports for it before we can really wire up the sink.  Bother!

But the sink is here, it’s big enough to take a full dyepot with no trouble, and I like it.  It would probably have been less trouble if I’d gotten a plain sink instead of one with a drainboard, but we’ll figure out a way to make it work.  And it will be nice to have a drainboard.

I’ve also bought the compost for the garden – fifteen cubic feet of it, to be exact.  We’re planning on five 8-9 foot rows – a single row of plants being easier to irrigate than a 4′x8′ bed.  We are probably going to do beds eventually, but we just don’t have the time right now.  That’s 45 linear feet of row, which is probably way more than enough.  Luxury!  I’m really going to go to town at the nursery, which has a wonderful selection of veggies this time of year.

Break’s over!  Back to learning about Drupal.

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