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<channel>
	<title>Tien Chiu &#187; network drafting</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.tienchiu.com/tag/network-drafting/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.tienchiu.com</link>
	<description>The Traveling Tiger</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 29 Jul 2010 14:49:07 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	
	<language>en</language>
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			<item>
		<title>ocean sunset II</title>
		<link>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/09/ocean-sunset-ii/</link>
		<comments>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/09/ocean-sunset-ii/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Sep 2009 10:16:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tien Chiu</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Creative works]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weaving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finished]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blue to fuchsia warp]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gradient colors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[knitted blank]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[network drafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.tienchiu.com/?p=93</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This shawl is created using a knitted blank and a warp dyed in 29 colors.  Knitted blanks are an interesting concept taught to me by Nancy Roberts of Machine Knitting to Dye For.  You knit up a rectangular piece of fabric, dye it, and then unravel it and reuse the yarn.  Using this technique you can get gradual color changes WITHOUT having  to dye a zillion skeins, which is exactly what I did!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/before-wet-finishing.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-94" title="before-wet-finishing" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/before-wet-finishing-225x300.jpg" alt="before-wet-finishing" width="225" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>This was a variation on the Ocean Sunset shawl, except that I made it with a knitted blank!</p>
<p>Knitted blanks are an interesting concept taught to me by Nancy Roberts of <a href="http://www.machineknittingtodyefor.com/" target="_blank">Machine Knitting to Dye For</a>.  You knit up a rectangular piece of fabric, dye it, and then unravel it and reuse the yarn.  Using this technique you can get gradual color changes WITHOUT having  to dye a zillion skeins, and you can get other effects as well (see the &#8220;Crazy Colors&#8221; shawl for an example).  In this case, I dyed a single blank a gradual change from yellow to red and back again to see what would happen when I wove it up!</p>
<p>I am of mixed minds about this shawl.  I don&#8217;t like the boldness of the lines near the bottom of the shawl, but I like the idea of the gradual color change.  I think I may try this idea again, but with a simpler pattern.</p>

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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/circles-and-lines-v3-petals-with-repeats.jpg" title="The pattern for Ocean Sunset II." class="shutterset_set_9" >
								<img title="The pattern for Ocean Sunset II" alt="The pattern for Ocean Sunset II" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/thumbs/thumbs_circles-and-lines-v3-petals-with-repeats.jpg"  />
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            <p>The pattern for Ocean Sunset II.</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/warped.jpg" title="The warp on the loom.  Doesn't it look pretty?" class="shutterset_set_9" >
								<img title="The wound warp for the Ocean Sunset II shawl" alt="The wound warp for the Ocean Sunset II shawl" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/thumbs/thumbs_warped.jpg"  />
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            <p>The warp on the loom.  Doesn't it look pretty?</p>
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	<div id="ngg-image-44" class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail-box"  >
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/knitted-blank.jpg" title="This is the knitted blank.  Notice how it shades gradually from gold to red." class="shutterset_set_9" >
								<img title="Knitted blank for Ocean Sunset II" alt="Knitted blank for Ocean Sunset II" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/thumbs/thumbs_knitted-blank.jpg"  />
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            <p>This is the knitted blank.  Notice how it shades gradually from gold to red.</p>
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	<div id="ngg-image-42" class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail-box"  >
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/bobbins.jpg" title="It's hard to see in the photo, but the bobbins gradually change color from start to finish.  Beautiful!" class="shutterset_set_9" >
								<img title="Bobbins wound from knitted blank" alt="Bobbins wound from knitted blank" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/thumbs/thumbs_bobbins.jpg"  />
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            <p>It's hard to see in the photo, but the bobbins gradually change color from start to finish.  Beautiful!</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/before-wet-finishing.jpg" title="The completed shawl before wet-finishing." class="shutterset_set_9" >
								<img title="View of the Ocean Sunset II shawl before wet-finishing" alt="View of the Ocean Sunset II shawl before wet-finishing" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/ocean-sunset-ii/thumbs/thumbs_before-wet-finishing.jpg"  />
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            <p>The completed shawl before wet-finishing.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>black jewel</title>
		<link>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/09/black-jewel/</link>
		<comments>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/09/black-jewel/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Sep 2009 09:39:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tien Chiu</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Creative works]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weaving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finished]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blue to fuchsia warp]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gradient colors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[network drafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.tienchiu.com/?p=88</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This is another shawl woven on the 2/28 silk warp, with colors that gradually transition from turquoise to fuchsia and back again.  It is woven with a black cashmere weft and is SO soft and sensuous against the skin!  It is one of my favorites, and I wear it often.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/turquoise-fuchsia-black-closeup.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-89" title="Closeup of the center pattern for Black Jewel" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/turquoise-fuchsia-black-closeup-300x200.jpg" alt="Closeup of the center pattern for Black Jewel" width="300" height="200" /></a></p>
<p>This shawl, which is one of my favorites, is woven on a 2/28 nm silk warp dyed in 29 colors, with a black cashmere yarn of about the same weight as weft.  The colors are so close to each other that visually they are almost indistinguishable, producing a very nice gradual fade from turquoise to fuchsia and back again.</p>
<p>This kind of gradual color change has been so successful that I am embarking on a new adventure: dyeing a full color wheel in 60/2 silk, in gradually changing colors!  I estimate that it will take about 120 skeins to get all the way around the color wheel, but fortunately I have enough 60/2 silk on hand that I can do it.  Then I can REALLY play!</p>

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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/black-weft-full-pattern.jpg" title="A black-and-white rendition of the pattern for Black Jewel" class="shutterset_set_7" >
								<img title="Pattern for Black Jewel" alt="Pattern for Black Jewel" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/thumbs/thumbs_black-weft-full-pattern.jpg"  />
							</a>
            <p>A black-and-white rendition of the pattern for Black Jewel</p>
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	<div id="ngg-image-33" class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail-box"  >
		<div class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail" >
			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/black-weft-progress.jpg" title="An in-progress photo.  I love the way the colors look in the warp!" class="shutterset_set_7" >
								<img title="An in-progress photo" alt="An in-progress photo" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/thumbs/thumbs_black-weft-progress.jpg"  />
							</a>
            <p>An in-progress photo.  I love the way the colors look in the warp!</p>
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	<div id="ngg-image-34" class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail-box"  >
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/turquoise-fuchsia-black-closeup.jpg" title="Closeup of the center part of the shawl.
(Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)" class="shutterset_set_7" >
								<img title="A closeup of the finished shawl" alt="A closeup of the finished shawl" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/thumbs/thumbs_turquoise-fuchsia-black-closeup.jpg"  />
							</a>
            <p>Closeup of the center part of the shawl.
(Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/black-cashmere-full-shawl.jpg" title="&quot;Black Jewel&quot;, full view" class="shutterset_set_7" >
								<img title="Entire &quot;Black Jewel&quot; silk/cashmere handwoven shawl" alt="Entire &quot;Black Jewel&quot; silk/cashmere handwoven shawl" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/thumbs/thumbs_black-cashmere-full-shawl.jpg"  />
							</a>
            <p>"Black Jewel", full view</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/turquoise-fuchsia-black.jpg" title="Another photo of the finished shawl.  (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)" class="shutterset_set_7" >
								<img title="Another photo of the finished shawl." alt="Another photo of the finished shawl." src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/black-jewel-fuchsia-turquoise/thumbs/thumbs_turquoise-fuchsia-black.jpg"  />
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            <p>Another photo of the finished shawl.  (Courtesy Joe Decker, Rockslide Photography.)</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Silk &amp; cashmere jacket</title>
		<link>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/silk-cashmere-jacket-network-drafted/</link>
		<comments>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/silk-cashmere-jacket-network-drafted/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2009 19:10:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tien Chiu</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Creative works]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weaving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finished]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[network drafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.tienchiu.com/?p=65</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This jacket was my first attempt at sewing my own handwoven fabric, and one of my very early attempts at design.  I hand-dyed all the yarns in this jacket, and dyed the silk lining as well.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/jacket.jpg" title="And, the finished jacket, modeled by yours truly." class="shutterset_singlepic17" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-center" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/17__300x300_jacket.jpg" alt="jacket" title="jacket" />
</a>

<p>This came off the same warp as the goldenrod shawl and the garnet shawl.  I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm cashmere for weft.  For the warp, I alternated 2&#8243; stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep shade of eggplant.</p>
<p>The draft was my first attempt at network drafting, for which I had lots of generous help from Bonnie Inouye.  Network drafting is a technique for making curved patterns in fabric, made available to the handweaving community by Alice Schlein in her book<em> Network Drafting: An Introduction.</em> It produces complex, curvy patterns with very little effort, and generally produces a very stable cloth.<em></em></p>
<p>Weaving the fabric for the jacket was quite a challenge; one of my shafts kept &#8220;floating&#8221; and so there were numerous flaws in the finished fabric.  But aha, the magic of cutting and sewing: I simply cut around the flaws!  There are a few visible in the finished piece, but on the whole it looks quite nice, better than the fabric did!</p>
<p>I lined the jacket with silk charmeuse, dyed chestnut brown to match the warp.  The pattern is a Butterick pattern, but I don&#8217;t recall the pattern number.</p>

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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/jacket_draft.jpg" title="This is a partial view of the jacket pattern, which had a very long repeat (so not all shown here)." class="shutterset_set_4" >
								<img title="Draft of the jacket pattern" alt="Draft of the jacket pattern" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/thumbs/thumbs_jacket_draft.jpg"  />
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            <p>This is a partial view of the jacket pattern, which had a very long repeat (so not all shown here).</p>
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	<div id="ngg-image-16" class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail-box"  >
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/closeup.jpg" title="A close-up of the finished fabric.  I wove it in chestnut and golden brown silk warp with an eggplant-colored cashmere weft." class="shutterset_set_4" >
								<img title="A close-up of the finished fabric" alt="A close-up of the finished fabric" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/thumbs/thumbs_closeup.jpg"  />
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            <p>A close-up of the finished fabric.  I wove it in chestnut and golden brown silk warp with an eggplant-colored cashmere weft.</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/whole_cloth.jpg" title="A photo of the finished cloth." class="shutterset_set_4" >
								<img title="A photo of the finished cloth." alt="A photo of the finished cloth." src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/thumbs/thumbs_whole_cloth.jpg"  />
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            <p>A photo of the finished cloth.</p>
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	<div id="ngg-image-17" class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail-box"  >
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/jacket.jpg" title="And, the finished jacket, modeled by yours truly." class="shutterset_set_4" >
								<img title="jacket" alt="jacket" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/brown-and-tan-jacket/thumbs/thumbs_jacket.jpg"  />
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            <p>And, the finished jacket, modeled by yours truly.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>garnet shawl</title>
		<link>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/garnet-shawl/</link>
		<comments>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/garnet-shawl/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 23 Aug 2009 06:14:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tien Chiu</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Creative works]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weaving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finished]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[network drafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.tienchiu.com/?p=12</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This shawl was one of my early attempts at network drafting.  The inspiration for the garnet red weft came when I dyed some yarn for a Tibetan lama friend - she had requested an auburn-to-maroon shade, and I liked the resulting yarn so much that I dyed some more in the same color!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/garnet-beads-closeup.jpg" title="My garnet shawl, beaded." class="shutterset_singlepic2" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-center" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/2__300x300_garnet-beads-closeup.jpg" alt="Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads." title="Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads." />
</a>

<p>This shawl came out of the same warp as the <a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/goldenrod-shawl/">goldenrod shawl</a> and the <a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/silk-cashmere-jacket-network-drafted/">silk and cashmere jacket</a>.  I dyed some 2/28 nm silk yarn for warp and some 2/28 nm silk/cashmere for weft. For the warp, I alternated 2″ stripes of chestnut brown and golden brown; the weft I dyed a deep garnet red.</p>
<p>The inspiration for this color came from a dear friend of mine, who is a Tibetan lama (very unusual for a Caucasian woman) and who had moved to India with her family.  I had offered her some mohair yarn in whatever shade she liked; she asked for a maroon or dark red, as that is the most appropriate shade for a Tibetan lama to wear.</p>
<p>So I mucked about in my dye samples, and finally decided to dye it using mostly red dye, with just a trace of turquoise to tone down the color.</p>
<p>I was absolutely shocked by the resulting shade: a glorious auburn red!  I hated to part with such beautiful yarn, but I had promised it, so I sent it on its way and promptly determined to dye some more!</p>
<p>This was one of my early attempts at network drafting, a very regular pattern resembling the overshot pattern called &#8220;orange peel&#8221;.  I still like the symmetry.</p>
<p>I beaded it with small amber beads and large garnet foil beads, but I have to warn you: those beads come off!  I&#8217;m constantly having to sew them back on.   Next time I use smaller beads!</p>

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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/garnet-weft.jpg" title="Another shot of the garnet weft placed against the warp." class="shutterset_set_1" >
								<img title="The garnet weft shown with the warp" alt="The garnet weft shown with the warp" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/thumbs/thumbs_garnet-weft.jpg"  />
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            <p>Another shot of the garnet weft placed against the warp.</p>
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	<div id="ngg-image-5" class="ngg-gallery-thumbnail-box"  >
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/garnet-weft-beads.jpg" title="This is the garnet shawl in its preliminary stages, showing the beads" class="shutterset_set_1" >
								<img title="Garnet weft shown with beads" alt="Garnet weft shown with beads" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/thumbs/thumbs_garnet-weft-beads.jpg"  />
							</a>
            <p>This is the garnet shawl in its preliminary stages, showing the beads</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/garnet-on-loom.jpg" title="Half-woven garnet shawl.  Here the pattern shows most clearly!" class="shutterset_set_1" >
								<img title="Garnet shawl on the loom" alt="Garnet shawl on the loom" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/thumbs/thumbs_garnet-on-loom.jpg"  />
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            <p>Half-woven garnet shawl.  Here the pattern shows most clearly!</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/garnet-finished.jpg" title="Larger photo of the garnet shawl" class="shutterset_set_1" >
								<img title="A large shot of the garnet shawl, showing the pattern." alt="A large shot of the garnet shawl, showing the pattern." src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/thumbs/thumbs_garnet-finished.jpg"  />
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            <p>Larger photo of the garnet shawl</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/garnet-beads-closeup.jpg" title="My garnet shawl, beaded." class="shutterset_set_1" >
								<img title="Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads." alt="Closeup of the garnet shawl, showing the beads." src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/weaving/thumbs/thumbs_garnet-beads-closeup.jpg"  />
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            <p>My garnet shawl, beaded.</p>
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		<title>goldenrod shawl</title>
		<link>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/goldenrod-shawl/</link>
		<comments>http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/goldenrod-shawl/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Aug 2009 19:48:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tien Chiu</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Creative works]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weaving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finished]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[network drafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.tienchiu.com/?p=75</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This shawl is network drafted on 16 shafts, and was woven on my Leclerc Diana.  I love the color of the weft! deep gold is one of my favorite colors, and I carefully dyed the weft to bring up the gold in the silk as well.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/goldenrod-pattern1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-77" title="goldenrod pattern" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/goldenrod-pattern1-300x189.jpg" alt="goldenrod pattern" width="300" height="189" /></a></p>
<p>This came off the same warp as the<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/silk-cashmere-jacket-network-drafted/"> silk/cashmere jacket</a> and the <a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/2009/08/garnet-shawl/">garnet shawl</a>, and shares the same draft as the garnet shawl.  (I liked the pattern so much I wove a second one!)</p>
<p>Weaving this was a real challenge &#8211; for some reason, one of the shafts in my loom was floating, so there are many irregularities in the cloth.  For this reason, I didn&#8217;t show it at CNCH (my regional weaving conference), but I still think it&#8217;s pretty.</p>

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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/star-fashion-orange-peel-only.jpg" title="Computer simulation of the pattern, generated by weaving software." class="shutterset_set_5" >
								<img title="Draft for the project" alt="Draft for the project" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/thumbs/thumbs_star-fashion-orange-peel-only.jpg"  />
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            <p>Computer simulation of the pattern, generated by weaving software.</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/goldenrod-weft.jpg" title="The dyed cashmere/silk weft yarn, shown against the silk warp yarns." class="shutterset_set_5" >
								<img title="Weft yarn" alt="Weft yarn" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/thumbs/thumbs_goldenrod-weft.jpg"  />
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            <p>The dyed cashmere/silk weft yarn, shown against the silk warp yarns.</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/goldenrod-pattern.jpg" title="The shawl on the loom." class="shutterset_set_5" >
								<img title="goldenrod shawl on the loom." alt="goldenrod shawl on the loom." src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/thumbs/thumbs_goldenrod-pattern.jpg"  />
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            <p>The shawl on the loom.</p>
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			<a href="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/goldenrod-shawl-unfinished.jpg" title="A photo of the shawl before wet-finishing." class="shutterset_set_5" >
								<img title="A photo of the shawl before wet-finishing" alt="A photo of the shawl before wet-finishing" src="http://www.tienchiu.com/wp-content/gallery/goldenrod-shawl/thumbs/thumbs_goldenrod-shawl-unfinished.jpg"  />
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            <p>A photo of the shawl before wet-finishing.</p>
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