I’m still experimenting way too much to show off all I’ve been doing, but here are two images that I think are worth posting:
The two photos show the front and the back of the fabric (which, as you may recall, is woven in two layers).Â This is using Bonnie Inouye’s technique of designing doubleweave on a parallel threading.Â One layer is threaded on shafts 1-12 and the other on shafts 13-24.Â You then alternate layers in the threading.Â This looks complex in the threading and treadling, but has the advantage of a pretty simple tie-up.Â The southwest quadrant of the tie-up controls the pattern in layer 1, the NE quadrant the pattern in layer 2.Â The NW and SE quadrants control how the layers interchange.Â In particular, if top left and bottom right are inverse of each other, you get “clean” interchanging between the layers; if they are not reverses of each other, the layers blend into a single layer.Â That isn’t necessarily bad, but you need to know how to use it.
Here’s the other interesting draft:
In this particular case, I altered the draft for the SW and NE quadrants to be a plainweave cross set against a 6-end broken twill background.Â When combined with the cross in NW and SE, this results in plainweave crosses on both sides, set against a 6-end broken twill background.Â The top section of treadling is (I think) for a tubular weave, with the two weft colors following each other around in a circle; the second section of treadling is (I think) correct for two separate layers.Â I must confess to being somewhat fuzzy about exactly how that works, though.Â That’s what I’m weaving samples for!
I’m a bit puzzled about sett.Â Handwoven’s Master Yarn Chart says that for 10/2 cotton, 20 ends per inch is a lacey sett, 24 is a plainweave sett, and 28 for twills.Â I had planned to sett it at 24 epi per layer with the intention of doing mostly twills, but now I’m thinking about taking the sett down to 20 per layer (so a total sett of 40 epi for both layers) even though that would technically be way too loose for twills.Â Any thoughts about what would be an appropriate sett for a mix of plainweave and twill, with some interchange between layers?
Off to bed!Â Today was exhausting (4+ hours of meetings/training at work), and my brain is fried.Â I’ll be able to think better in the morning.Â I hope, anyway!