Chugging along

I spent several hours winding warp yesterday, so I am about 3/4 of the way through beaming the warp.  I’ve also finished another set of dye samples (cooling in the dyebath as I type), and have designed/chosen a few of the patterns I want to try:

Dogwood pattern from Handwoven.net

Dogwood pattern from Handwoven.net

four pointed design from Handwoven.net

four pointed design from Handwoven.net

scale pattern

scale pattern

These obviously need to be converted to a tied weave, but I wanted to gather some patterns first.

I also want to design a very simple pattern of wavy lines so I can see what happens when I use imagery in the tie-down, and am intrigued by the possibility of weaving a taqueté design of puzzle pieces, in two colors.  But I need to learn how to design taqueté first!  Lillian Whipple has an excellent article in WeaveZine on designing summer and winter and taqueté, so I will start by rereading that.

Other than that, not much going on.  I’m still recovering from the conference, so my energy isn’t quite up to usual.

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Settling down to design

I’ve started winding the warp, which I’ve decided will be black 60/2 silk sett at (initially) 40 epi, which is in the mid-range of what Peggy Osterkamp recommends for plain weave.  The warp will be 24″ wide – that way if I need to resley to a denser sett, I’ll still have enough width to make a shawl.  That was easy.

Now comes the hard part: what to weave?  It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed with so many choices.  Now I know how people feel when faced with a blank sheet of paper and a pen!

Well, when in doubt, simplify.  Here is the matrix of what I want to try:

Tie-downs Tie-down yarns Pattern Pattern yarns
Plainweave

Twill order

Image

Complex image?

Black 60/2 silk

Solid jewel tone 60/2 silk

30/2 silk (for taquete?)

Simple pattern

Complex pattern

Images

Rayon chenille

30/2 silk

Metallic gold

2/28 cashmere

Variegated color yarn (30/2 with gold metallic?)

OK, there’s still a lot, but it’s much more manageable than a blank slate!

So at the outset, I just need one simple image and one complex image for the tie-downs, and one simple, one complex, and one image pattern for the pattern weft.  For the sampling, it doesn’t really matter what the patterns are, it’s mostly to give me an idea of which types of patterns go with which.  Once I know how the structures behave, I can start playing around with different weft yarns.  And that should keep me busy for awhile.

Given all that, the threading is pretty easy to determine.  I want enough shafts for the tie-downs to produce plainweave, twill, and interesting images.  8 shafts sounds like a good number – I can do plainweave, 4 shaft twills, and simple images on 8 shafts.   I don’t want a point threading because of the longer floats at the point.  So an 8-shaft, straight draw threading on the ties seems reasonable.

That leaves 16 shafts for the pattern wefts.  At 40 epi, alternating between tie-downs and pattern shafts, straight draw will give me a motif about 4/5 of an inch wide, with 16 pixels per motif.  But I want my motifs a little bigger than that, and I also want a bit more detail.  A point threading will double the width of my motif and also give me more pixels to play around with – as long as it’s symmetric – so I will have motifs about 64 threads wide (counting the ties), about an inch and a half.  That sounds good to me!

So, I have it down to a fairly simple threading, 8 shaft straight draw on the ties, 16 shaft point threading on the pattern shafts.  Wasn’t that easy?

And now I have enough information to move forward…it will take me the rest of the week to finish beaming and threading the warp, so I have a loooong time to come up with the  patterns and yarns I want to weave with.

Of course, once I finish my sampling/experimentation, I’ll have to figure out what to weave as a “final” product, but by then I’ll know a lot more about tied weaves and will presumably be able to design something reasonably well.  It’s only the tabula rasa at the beginning, when you don’t know anything about anything, that is intimidating.  (Well, for me anyway.)

I am winding this warp to be 13 yards long – that is enough for 4 yards of sampling, 1 yard of loom waste, and 3 shawls.  Given all the things I want to try, I don’t think I’ll get bored!

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Ready to start

I did some more designing this morning, producing this monstrosity:

tied weave with 12 shaft, network drafted ties

tied weave with 12 shaft, network drafted ties

It’s a patterned weave with all sorts of patterns (see the right side of the liftplan) with a 12-shaft network drafted pattern in the ties (left side of liftplan).  Tabby ground.

Now, why on earth would I want to weave up a monstrosity like that?  The answer is that I don’t, at least not this one.  It was a gedanken (thought) experiment, to see if I understood how to generate complex tied weaves.  I checked with Su Butler (who runs the Tied Weaves study group for Complex Weavers) and she confirmed that it does work as a tied weave, so I think I’ve got a decent grasp on it now.  So it’s time to start warping up, and designing samples and/or the “real thing”.

So what to weave?  Well, let’s start with the warp.  I think I’m going to warp up with black 60/2 silk, as I’d like to use some of the jewel-toned 30/2 silks as pattern weft, and black will really pop out the colors.  With that black warp I can weave 30/2 silk, and various slightly heavier cashmere and/or silk wefts, including some of the beautiful yarns I bought from Giovanna.  I also plan to try that metallic gold yarn that I used in my wedding-dress, and some rayon chenille in jewel tones.  (I’d have to dye the rayon chenille, but I think that would be fun!)

In addition, I want to try weaving with 60/2 silk in jewel tones as the tabby weft, to see how that looks.  Which means I’ll need to dye some 60/2 silk in bright jewel tones, some time after I’ve warped.  I’ve never dyed 60/2 silk before, which means another adventure!

And I have to design the various patterns I want to try, settling on a threading pattern, before I start threading.  Fortunately, it will take me several days to wind on the warp, which gives me time to design.

Whee!  What fun.  I can’t wait to get started!

Dyeing wise,  I managed to get the skein to dye with level color!  This is a huge accomplishment.  I skipped doing another dyebath today, but will tackle another tomorrow morning.

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Weaving and dyeing and designing, oh my!

Not too surprisingly (except to me!), I spent nearly all day Saturday sleeping.  3 hours of naptime during the day followed by 10 hours of sleep last night seems to have brought me nearly back to my usual energy, though, and I got quite a bit done today.

First, I finished weaving the final shawl on the doubleweave warps.  This one is woven using two solid colored wefts, one the rich deep orange-red of homemade tomato sauce, and one a royal purple.  The wefts did not quite dye evenly so there is some intriguing color variation.  I wove this with 1/3, 2/2, and 3/1 twill in the foreground, but a plain 1/3 twill background – I’d post photos, as it came out looking quite beautiful, but it’s a gift for a friend and I want to surprise her!  And I managed to weave up nearly all of the shawl (72 of 80 inches) today, so I think I’m doing pretty well.  I still need to hemstitch the loom end before I can take it off the loom, and plan to finish that tonight.

Second, I did my next two sets of dye samples.  The first one nearly had me tearing my hair out with frustration, but after sulking for about half a day, I started a second sample, this time with a few changes in the recipe and much more stirring, and this one (finally!) seems to be coming out okay.  I’m considering doing Cibacron F samples as well for this study group, but I think I will err on the side of less insanity and just do Lanasets.

Or maybe not.  Who knows?

Third, I started designing tied weaves.  Here are the two tied weaves I cooked up this morning:

quigley (four-tie) weave, but weaves equivalently to a double two-tie

quigley (four-tie) weave, but weaves equivalently to a double two-tie

quigley weave, ties in twill order

quigley weave, ties in twill order

In case you were wondering about the four ties, it’s because I wanted to be able to experiment with different patterns in the ties.  I’m definitely getting a better understanding of how to generate these – now I want to try something really interesting, like using 12 shafts for the ties and doing a network drafted pattern in the ties as well as using pattern shafts to create the main pattern.

The advantage of a network drafted pattern in the ties is that I can do simpler patterns as well.  On a 12-shaft network with a 4-end initial, I can weave anything that is weavable on a four-end straight draw, meaning I can weave the two examples above as well as more complicated patterns.  This way I can start with a relatively simple pattern, see what that looks like, and then continue into more complex patterns, all on the same warp!

Of course, that assumes that I can figure out the general algorithm for combining an arbitrary pattern of ties with the “usual” pattern, but I don’t think it’s that complicated – give me a day or two and I’ll figure it out.  With this, as with most things, Photoshop will be my friend.

Some of the things I’m planning to try out on this soon-to-be tied weave warp:

  • simple patterns in Summer and Winter or double two-tie unit weave
  • different wefts – rayon chenille, cashmere, feltable wool
  • complex patterns in the ties
  • complex patterns in the pattern threads (network drafting on 12 shafts and a 4-end initial, anyone?)

and various combinations of the above.  I think I will refrain from working with gradient colors for this warp, partly because I’m out of color gradient yarn, but mostly because I think there will be enough going on already!

Still haven’t chosen a yarn for this warp.  I’m thinking either 60/2 or 30/2 silk for the ground cloth, and am really really really trying to convince myself to use 30/2.  Trouble is, I think 60/2 would be so much more FUN…especially with that 3450 ypp rayon chenille I’ve got somewhere…but, being practical, 30/2 silk would make it much easier to see what I’m doing.

Off to stir the dyepots!

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Back home

I had a WONDERFUL time at Complex Weavers and Convergence!  The seminars at Complex Weavers were everything I had hoped for – very informative talks on advanced topics.  I learned a lot about using Photoshop to design, tied weaves, double twills, and oh! lots and lots of very interesting stuff that I plan to go back over soon so I don’t forget anything.  I attended lots of study group meetings, and will probably join a couple more study groups as a result.  And it was wonderful meeting so many of the people I’ve been corresponding with forever!  It was a huge amount of fun, and I’ll definitely be going next time.

Convergence was fun too, but in a different sort of way.  It’s ten times the size of Complex Weavers, so it doesn’t have anything like the same intimacy, but the sheer scale allows them to do things that Complex Weavers can’t, like put on juried shows, attract LOTS and LOTS of vendors, including quite a few loom manufacturers, and offer a dizzying array of classes.  I didn’t have time to take any classes, but I went to the vendor halls on Wednesday and the galleries on Thursday – plus some time in the Weavolution booth, of course!

The Fashion Show took place on Wednesday, and was interesting and educational.  I didn’t think the wedding-dress was particularly well-shown (the dress totally didn’t fit the model), but the rest of the garments were fun to watch.  I would have liked it more if there had been more interesting weaving in the garments, but the trouble with woven detail is that it just doesn’t show from 50 feet away.  So the more dramatic garments (including the winning one) were mostly surface design, not weaving.  Still, there was quite a bit of interesting stuff, and it was neat to look through the galleries afterward.  Some of the handwoven garments were breathtakingly beautiful!

The other galleries were neat to look at.  The highlight (for me, anyway) was Kathe Todd-Hooker’s winning tapestry in the Small Expressions exhibit.  I’d scarcely call it a tapestry, it was so intricate and detailed!  She does her tapestries with sewing thread, so they are exquisitely fine.  It was simply stunning.

And the dress, of course.  I went to visit it and was pleasantly surprised to find it well-mounted and well-lit, with the little photo book I’d made about the dress laid out on a small table.  I spent some time just gazing at it.  This might be the last time I see the ensemble properly mounted and displayed, so I wanted to get a really good look at it.  It’s beautiful, and I love it.  (Many, many people came up to me over the course of Complex Weavers and Convergence and told me how much they loved it…wow!  I’m so glad I was able to share it with other weavers.)

And the vendor hall.  Oh, the vendor hall!  Anything and everything related to fiber arts was there.  Lots of books (I bought Anne Field’s book on devore), tools, looms, spinning wheels, dyes, and YARNS!  If you were into hand-dyed yarns, it was sheer heaven.  Practically every booth seemed to have hand-dyed yarns!  Fortunately for me, I have fairly esoteric tastes, so I wasn’t sucked into every booth, but John Marshall and Giovanna Imperia turned out to be quite dangerous!  From John I bought about a pound of very fine silk yarn plied with a metallic silver thread.  It’s about the weight of 120/2 silk.  At Giovanna’s booth, I bought skeins of fine white, gray, and charcoal yarns, all different fiber compositions, but all feltable – I plan to try those in some sort of differential-shrinkage collapse weave.

And, at Hokett Would Work, I found these wonderful little shuttles (top of the photo):

narrow boat shuttles

narrow boat shuttles

Normally I prefer end feed shuttles (like the Schacht end feed shuttle in the bottom of the photo) to boat shuttles, but I loved Alice Schlein’s seminar on double twill, which requires weaving with four shuttles!  I don’t have enough room for four conventional shuttles on the web of my loom, but I can easily fit four of these ultra-narrow ones!  They won’t hold a lot of yarn, but since I usually weave with very fine yarns, that’s not a huge problem for me.

I also got a chance to weave on not one, but TWO jacquard looms!  AVL was there with their Jacq3G, and Digital Weaving Norway was there with their TC-1.  I was really excited to find out that the TC-2 (to be released this winter) is considerably cheaper than the TC-1 was, and (at current exchange rate) would only be around $30,000!  That’s about half the cost of the TC-1, and comparable to the Jacq3G.  It’s not cheap, but as I explained to people, it’s gone from being a BMW to a Prius.  (Particularly relevant to me since I drive a Prius!)  It’s cut the amount of time I estimated I’d have to save for a Jacquard loom nearly in half.  I think I might be able to purchase one within 5-6 years!  Compared to the 10 years I thought I’d have to save to own one, that’s lightning fast.  So I am thrilled.

Alas, all too soon, the time ran out and I had to board a plane for home.  I got home late last night, collapsed into bed, and am still getting myself caught up on sleep.  I was so excited I don’t think I slept more than six hours a night the entire time I was at Complex Weavers/Convergence!  So I badly need to catch up on sleep.  Tomorrow morning, guess who’s sleeping in?

On the agenda for this weekend: dye more samples for my dye study group, weave the third doubleweave shawl (this one with two solid colored wefts), clean up the studio, and start looking at tied weaves.

For tied weaves, I think I may put on a relatively simple threading and play around a bit.  I’m thinking twenty pattern shafts alternated with four tie-down shafts in point order.  That will allow me to do summer and winter (by making each two adjacent pattern shafts work together as a single shaft), double two tie unit weave, and experiment with twill and tabby tie-downs.  I’m toying with the idea of using 120/2 silk as the ground cloth and either 60/2 or 30/2 silk as the pattern weft, because I also want to play around with fine threads, but it also occurs to me that it might be nice to be able to make out the pattern, since this is my first time playing with a tied weave and I want to see how it behaves.  So I am leaning towards 60/2 silk with a 30/2 silk pattern weft, that being the heaviest I think I have in my stash.  I will look and see if I have any thicker yarns.

Whew!  What a lot to do.  I  hope I’ll catch up on sleep tonight, so I can get right to work in the morning!

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