Itchiku Kubota

I recently received (from Amazon) an utterly fantastic book, Kimono as Art: The Landscapes of Itchiku Kubota.  If you are a dyer, or a textile artist of any form, do not walk, RUN to Amazon and pick up a copy.  It is inspirational.

Itchiku Kubota was a Japanese artist who used brush painting and various forms of resist dyeing on silk to create fabulously beautiful kimono.  (This is roughly like saying Van Gogh was a guy who used a brush with oil paints on canvas.)  I first became aware of his work when I was visiting a friend and happened to glance through a copy of Smithsonian, the Smithsonian Institute’s magazine.  In it was an article about Kubota, and photos of the most beautiful textile creation I had ever seen.  I took one look and said, “I have seen the face of God”.

Possibly a little over-dramatic, but I mean it: in that kimono, I saw the face of my Muse, and the kind of work I would spend the rest of my life striving to create.  Kubota’s work, at first glance, is a gloriously beautiful dyed piece.  But as you move closer up, you can see the incredible detail of his work: tiny shibori stitches, delicately brush-painted flowers, flowing shades of dye.  What I love about his work is that it is complex and detailed- you gain more by seeing it closer and closer, and one piece has enough to keep you occupied for a long time.

A Google image search produces quite a few of his works, but the particular one that convinced me I’d seen the face of God is this one:

"Burning Sun" kimono by Itchiku Kubota

"Burning Sun" kimono by Itchiku Kubota

The photo doesn’t do it justice, though: it was the closeup that made me gasp.  A better idea might be gotten by looking at this kimono:

kimono by Itchiku Kubota

another kimono by Itchiku Kubota

(click through for the larger version)

At any rate, Kubota for me signifies what I seek in my work: harmony of color, incredible detail, perfect workmanship, and a broad sweep of ambition: his Symphony of Light series was meant to be 80 kimonos, but he died after the completion of only 40.  His son and his atelier continue his work today.  (A single kimono is so intricate that it can easily take a year to complete.)

Kubota’s work also represents dedication.  He spent nearly fifteen years researching and experimenting with dyes before producing his first kimono.  He started his atelier at age 44, but it wasn’t until he was 60 that he had his first show, with a relatively simple version of the kimono you see above.  He studied many different arts to produce his work.  It is that singleminded dedication, that commitment to follow the Muse, that I strive for in my work.  I will probably never achieve his mastery, but on my deathbed, I’ll still be trying.

The other thing that catches my eye about Kubota’s work is its level of detail.  If I have a single criticism of American fiber artistry, it is that it tends to lack detail.  It’s made for speed, in a land of bustling efficiency and instant gratification.  I don’t see the level of focus needed to achieve mastery; that Olympian-athlete attitude, patient and eager both at once, that creates true masterworks.  I wonder if my focus comes from my Asian heritage (which would be funny, since I don’t think of myself as particularly Asian).  The book on Kubota reads,

Kubota spent more than twenty years attempting to perfect his version of tsujigahana, and during that time he did not show his work publicly.  In 1980, he said, “Those years were a succession of experiments in dyeing, of failures and disappointments, with a new method conceived from the very next day and a new start made from scratch.”  This perseverance when confronted with repeated failure was one of Kubota’s strengths; it was reinforced by the fact that he learned his meticulous and time-consuming craft in the Japanese apprenticeship system.  As an apprentice, he would have developed patience while kinesthetically absorbing technique; neither the idea of efficiency nor the concept of “short cuts” exists in the world of traditional Japanese crafts.

My observation of Japanese crafts, such as origami and Japanese knitting, is that they have a level of intricacy and detail that is seldom found in American craft.  I’m not saying that it’s universally true: the origami work of Robert Lang and John Montroll is precise and beautiful, and there are certainly American knitters who do intricate knitting, tapestry weavers that work in fine detail.  But as a whole, American craft strikes me as larger-scale, lacking the detail and delicacy that I see in Asian art.  It has its strengths in other areas, but it is Asian art that most inspires me.  Kubota expresses the Muse with incredible power and delicacy, and it is his spirit and dedication that I aspire to in my work.

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Using Photoshop to simulate colors in weaving

As a way of learning everything possible about weaving, I’ve been joining lots of the Complex Weavers study groups.  In fact, I currently belong to three: the Garment Study Group, the Fine Threads Study Group, and the Computer Aided Design Exchange study group.  The first two are pretty self-explanatory, the third focuses on new ways to use computers in designing your weaving.

Well, the CAD Exchange just had its Feb 15 article exchange, and I was so excited on reading the first few articles that I immediately got up and wrote my contribution for August 15.  I posted it to the CAD mailing list, and then thought that some of you might be interested in it as well.

So here’s my article on using Photoshop to simulate colors in weaving.  It’s really more about simulating warps/wefts with gradual color changes, a la my Ocean Sunset shawl or Liquid Fire, but it might have some interesting applications to other structures/color changes.  I haven’t really explored this further, but perhaps I  should!

I should warn you that the article is about 3.5 MB, so it’s pretty big – but worth reading anyway, I hope!  It’s mostly color photos, which accounts for the file size.

At this point I’ve written enough articles and snippets that I’m seriously considering creating a “Publications” section of my website – seems like it would make things a lot easier to find!

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Plaster mummy

Today I had Mike transform me into a plaster mummy, covering me with wet, rapidly-hardening plaster bandages until I was in a full-body cast from neck to mid-thigh.

No, I don’t have a plaster fetish.  (Really.)  Instead, we were preparing to cast a dress form using the instructions in the My Twin Dressform manual.  First you make a plaster cast of your torso and let it dry.  Then you fill the plaster cast with plastic resin foam, and presto! a Fantastic Plastic Person.

Since I was complaining recently that there needed to be three of me, I think I’m going to cast two Fantastic Plastic Tiens from the mold Mike and I just made.  The first one can go to work, the second can work on the dress, and I’ll just kick back and weave.  :-)

No, seriously.  I will need to display both coat and dress, so I’m making two dress forms.  For display purposes, I’m going to cover them in black stretch velvet for maximum visual impact.  After that, when they become “working” forms, I’ll cover them in something less dramatic, like a rib knit.

Other than that, it was a fairly uneventful day.  I finished sewing down the back lace, and sewed down the pearls around the neck edge of the bodice.  I had exactly as many pearls as were needed to complete the neck edge – good thing I didn’t lose any more of them!  I will use the new pearls on the body of the sleeves, and on the back of the dress.  I don’t think the difference will be noticeable there.

I also finished hemming both sleeves, and started clipping the too-tight stitches out of the hem.  Tomorrow morning I’ll go at it in earnest, to see what can be saved.  Redoing one row of stitches will cost me about three hours, which is about 2/3 of a weekday’s work – annoying, but not nearly as disastrous as I was thinking earlier.  So hopefully I can get the hem fixed tomorrow.  That will free me to work on the second lining the rest of the week.

I am also starting to design the wedding invitations.  I had wanted to set them up with woven double-happiness symbols, but I’m running out of time for that (somehow time seems to be getting away from me lately!).  The dress probably won’t be done until the beginning of April, precisely when  the invitations should really go out.  I could probably warp up the loom at lightspeed once the dress is done, and bang out the invitations, but I’m not sure I feel like working under any more time pressure!  Once the dress is done, I plan to kick back and relax for at least a week.  (OK, well, maybe just a couple of days.  I’m not very good at doing nothing!)

At any rate, the rapid sweep of time means I need to start thinking about designing the invitations.  I figure I can do that in my spare time, when I’m sick of working on the dress.

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Costly mistakes

Well, I went up to Sharon’s yesterday, and we took a look at the coat and dress.  Apparently my catchstitching in the dress hem was too tight, so the top of the hem is puckering.  All those tiny catchstitches will need to be taken out and redone.  We might be able to salvage something by cutting and easing some of the sections, but it’s not clear how much we’ll be able to get away with.  Also, there’s some chance that the problem actually lies with the bias binding…in which case it all might need to be redone.

We also discovered that, through an error in cutting, the dress lining is about 1-2″ too short.  And that the six or seven hours of prick-stitching that I put into the coat facing was not tight enough or deep enough to keep the ribbon from rolling…so that will also need to be redone, possibly with an extra line of prickstitching along the other edge of the ribbon to keep the ribbon flat.

This is pretty discouraging news, especially in the face of a looming deadline.  April 5 is only 30 days away…which sounds like a lot, but even the 100-120 hours of work I can put in before then seems like a drop in the bucket compared to all the work that still needs doing.

So I am feeling pretty discouraged.

On the other hand, all is not lost, either.  Sharon is taking on the coat, and will try to get it done this week.  Not my first choice – I’d rather do it all myself – but I need to measure out my time carefully between now and the deadline.  Meanwhile, I’m going to continue work on the dress, finishing up the back lace, assembling the second lining, redoing the hems, and hemming the sleeves.  I’ll also run up to Britex Fabrics to see if they have any lace edgings I can use on the bottom of the too-short lining.

And next weekend Sharon and I will meet up again, and see how much progress we’ve made.  Hopefully next week’s results will be different!

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Whither next?

As the handwoven wedding dress project draws to a close, I’m starting to think about what I want to do next.  The latest Shuttle, Spindle, and Dyepot had an article on their TLC (Teaching and Learning through Correspondence) program, which is a year-long program of directed self-study.  You come up with a topic you want to explore, they pair you up with a mentor, and together you come up with a plan for the year.

This sounds good to me.  I’ve been wanting to do a more disciplined program for awhile, and this will give me a chance to delve into some areas that interest me.  I like planning and do better with concrete goals and schedules (I am a project manager, after all!), and this will let me lay out more or less what I want to do without binding me irrevocably if I decide to explore a different byway in the same topic.  So I am seriously considering it.

Topics that currently look intriguing include doubleweave, using Photoshop to create new drafts, and tied weaves.  I’d like to play with color, too, but that can be done in any structure.  So I have sent out some feelers to various potential mentors, which will hopefully spark further discussion about possible things to explore.  I don’t plan to commit definitively to anything before Convergence, though, and will probably do one or two projects in each area to see if I enjoy working with that particular structure.  Tied weaves and (stitched) doubleweave are typically two-shuttle endeavors, for example, so if I don’t enjoy using two shuttles there’s no need to torture myself with them for an entire year!

The other thing I’d like to learn is (more about) couture sewing, and/or pattern drafting, but I think I want to focus on weaving for now.  They say it takes about 10,000 hours to become a master  at something.  If I include the time I’ve already spent, I think I can do that in 9-10 years of concentrated study.  Sounds like a lot…but I suspect the time will fly!

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