Tien Chiu

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You are here: Home / Archives for woven iridescence

August 13, 2009 by Tien Chiu

Wowza.

I spent all day yesterday weaving like a maniac, using 24 different colors fading from fuchsia to electric blue, and then back again, in the larger goose-eye pattern.  Then I cut it off the loom, looked at it, and…

…words fail me.

Unfortunately, so do photos – it doesn’t look nearly as good in the photos as it does in real life.  But here are two poor excuses for what it really looks like:

Rumpled view of iridescent shawl
Rumpled view of woven iridescence shawl
Full view of woven iridescence shawl
Full view of woven iridescence shawl

It is just beautiful, especially when the light comes at an angle and the full iridescence comes into play.  In the darker blues, it practically glows.

So I am VERY pleased with the results of this experiment.  Must play further with woven iridescence, later.

I also discovered a handy new technique when working with straight draw: treadling the hemstitching!.  I was preparing to do the hemstitching as I usually do, picking the yarns out of the reed,  when it suddenly dawned on me that I could easily pick out bunches of 4,  6, or 8 threads simply by having the loom raise the appropriate shafts!  So that’s exactly what I did.  I created a draft that raised shafts 1-4, then 5-8, then 9-12, and so on, and treadled to lift each  group of threads for hemstitching.  It was significantly faster than earlier attempts, and also more comfortable, since I wasn’t bending over with my nose in the reed.  I must remember this for later work.  Not always possible, but handy when  it works.

Diane asked how I beamed this warp and whether I was happy with the results!  I was very happy!  I beamed it by tying very tight choke ties near the  back of the warp, about a foot behind the cross (which, the way Laura does it, goes on first), and using them to even out the warp near the back end after pre-sleying the reed.  I then tied knots (in lieu of loops) and laced the knots to the back beam.  Then I beamed on as per the instructions I posted a few posts back.

It was more challenging to beam on since the yarns weren’t quite identically aligned, and the lease sticks got “stuck” from time to time (possibly because I didn’t have enough weight, more likely because the yarns weren’t under even tension) but it wove off very nicely, no problems with tension or loose threads.  I did have to cut about 2″ off one side of the warp to accommodate the unused heddles (which were playing havoc with the left selvage), but that had nothing to do with the beaming on – it behaved perfectly as soon as I took off the “extra” threads.  (I could have removed the extra heddles, of course, but it was easier and quicker to leave them on, especially since I’ll have to put them back on for the dress fabric.  Adding and subtracting heddles from 24 shafts is a time-consuming and frustrating process, and I’d just as soon skip it unless absolutely necessary.)

Today and tomorrow I have all-day classes in project management, so not much weaving will get done.  But I plan to start putting on a new warp.  Debating whether to make it the painted rayon chenille (which I doubt will work correctly, due to the way I wound it) or a new warp, in 2/20 white mohair. I’m inclined to do the  mohair, but should perhaps give the rayon chenille and alpaca/wool (?) mix a chance, first.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: gradient colors, woven iridescence

August 12, 2009 by Tien Chiu

…and, the samples

I finished weaving up the iridescent samples!  I tried Alice’s idea of using smaller diamonds in a satin structure – it’s the first one on the loom – and also in even smaller diamonds (really 3-end huck lace spots) in the second sample on the loom.  I didn’t really like the look of either one on the loom, so I went back to my original goose-eye pattern and added a second column of the pattern, and liked that much better.

Here’s a photo on the loom:

Samples of patterns for the shawl
Samples of patterns for the shawl

You can see one of my iridescent samples at the bottom, with just a hint of the iridescence as it goes over the back beam.  I can’t wait to get these samples out of the wash!

As for the patterns…we’ll just have to see what comes out of the wash.  As Laura says, there’s magic in the water…

Meanwhile, I think I will begin winding the warp for the next project, which will be a mohair shawl.  Or else I will start pre-sleying the reed for the rayon chenille warp, though I fully expect it to be a tangled mess, given its winding and treatment to date.

Decisions, decisions…

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: woven iridescence

August 11, 2009 by Tien Chiu

Woven iridescence

Today I finished threading, sleying, tying on, and weaving the first two feet or so of the fabric.  I’ve been experimenting with a variety of weft colors, and ALL of them have come out gorgeous – something I had totally not expected given a bright orange warp.  Even the faded-denim blue which I used for the header looked marvelous!

And the iridescence….WOW!!!  If you have never played with woven iridescence, do not walk, RUN to your loom and try it!  I am wild with delight.  I haven’t had a chance to get the fabric off the loom yet, but just looking at it with the light at an oblique angle shows off the color changes.  And the glow of the silk makes it just fantastic.

Once I finish my samples, I am considering what to do for the shawl.  I’m definitely going to make it a color-changing shawl, but I’m trying to think of how best to show off the color changes.  Iridescence shows up best in plainweave, so I definitely want to keep a strong plainweave component, but I also want something slightly more complex, and maybe something that involves deflected threads.  The only restriction I have is that it must be weavable on a twenty-four-shaft straight draw, because that’s what the threading is.

So there are a LOT of options.  I think it might even be something as simple as plainweave with small goose-eye diamonds, maybe one diamond every repeat.  Just enough to give the eye something to rest on.

I think that (once I finish up with the first set of samples) I’m going to sample this pattern:

goose-eye diamonds

I worry a little bit about whether the areas of diamonds, having fewer interlacements, would produce tension problems eventually; I also worry a little bit about those sections collapsing inwards, since, again, they have fewer interlacements.  But this is what sampling is for!

I expect to finish weaving off this warp tomorrow and to start putting on a new warp of fine white mohair (of the non-fuzzy type).  I’m thinking that for this one, I’ll make one more attempt at making back-to-front warping work with the warping wheel.  If that doesn’t work, I’m going to go to Kathy’s suggestion of putting a tension box on the warping wheel and using it to warp sectionally.  (Alas, I have neither a warping mill nor room for one; I agree with Kate that it would be the best solution.)

I actually don’t think it’s the warping wheel at fault; I think my problem with sectional beaming is that my sections do not line up exactly.  So I will try using the plain beaming method first.

Filed Under: All blog posts, textiles, weaving Tagged With: gradient colors, woven iridescence

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